Steel is an amazing material. It comes in an array of types, from stainless to high speed. The distinct structure of each variety makes it optimal for different applications. M42 high speed steel has been used for centuries in shops of all kinds, from enormous factories to your personal woodturning shop.
M42 high speed steel has a unique structure, allowing its trademark durability and edge sharpness. A 10% additive of cobalt is responsible for M42's toughness. Cobalt allows heat-treatment up to 64-68 HRC. This provides M42 with outstanding edge durability. Furthermore, M42's composition is unusually tight, meaning it can be honed to a fine edge.
In addition to a fine edge, it is the heat-treatment process that makes M42 the industry standard for hundreds of applications.
Steel is shipped from suppliers to machine shops around the world in an annealed state. Because this is the steel's softest and most relaxed state, machining the steel in this form is much easier. Heat-treatment always takes place on annealed steel. Once a steel has been heat-treated, it can be returned to it's annealed state. Steel cannot be re-heat-treated without first being annealed.
Once the steel has been machined, it moves onto heat-treating. Different types or grades of steels can be heat-treated to different harnesses. Because M42 has a 10% cobalt content it can be heat-treated harder than most high speed steels, to 68 HRC.
After the hardening process, the steel is very brittle and pressured. This is why tempering is the next step. Tempering reduces the internal stress of the steel and increase robustness.
Once the steel has been tempered it is ready for use in a huge warehouse, machine shop or at your wood lathe.
Questions? Call our metallurgists at (206)878-7672. Happy turning.
]]>Inspecting the Tree
As you inspect a fallen tree, make sure to distinguish between limb wood and trunk wood. Generally, trunk wood includes fewer knots and irregular growth, features that add uniqueness to your piece but tend to warp and crack.
Storing Before Cutting
Until you are ready to cut your log into blank sized chunks, store the wood in long pieces to limit the number of open ends at risk for cracking. Using a sealer, such as this one offered at Packard Woodworks, will guard against checking. Don't worry about removing tight bark, it will actually slow moisture loss and protect against splitting.
Cutting the Log
When you are ready to cut the log into blanks, it is helpful to understand that the middle of the log is called the 'pith' and is the tree stem. This area is very unstable, tends to dry unevenly, and should not be included in your turning blanks. Following the diagram below will allow you to cut two bowl blanks from a log while avoiding the volatile pith area.
Once you've cut your blanks don't forget to mark, seal and store them in a dry area until you are ready to mount them on the lathe.
Happy turning!
Information drawn from this helpful Wood Magazine article. And this informative video.
In the midst of how-to videos and articles, Nick Cook offers a different type of insight.
A few minutes of maintenance will ensure that your lathe stays in shape.
1. After turning make sure to blow or brush off chips. When shavings cover the lathe they can cause the motor to overheat and wear. Loose fittings can also get lost or thrown away amidst piles of chips.
2. Wipe down your bed, the top, underneath and inside. WD 40 and a 3M scotch-brite pad work great. This will keep your bed smooth, making your banjo and tailstock easy to adjust. Removing debris also ensures there is nothing between the bed and banjo or tailstock that could hinder them from locking down tightly.
3. Run your finger over the tool rest and, if the surface is not smooth, use a mill file to level the rest. Oftentimes the steel of your tool is harder than that of your tool rest and pushing the tool into the rest can cause pivots. It's important to keep your tool rest level so that your passes are unobstructed and smooth.
4. Inspect drive belts for wear and cracks.
5. Keep the headstock free of excess chips and debris so that your dead center spins true. Specifically keep an eye on the headstock threads, ensuring they are unhindered by chips.
Now that your lathe is in great shape, let's get turning!
]]>1. The tailstock is your cheapest insurance. Whenever possible, take advantage of the tailstock. It comes with your lathe and a stable, secure piece is always easier to work with.
2. Ride the bevel. Pay attention to how you're using your tools. Take it slow and remember to ride the bevel.
3. Use sandpaper like someone else is paying for it. Don't overuse the same piece of sandpaper, an 800 grit piece can quickly become dull.
4. A sharp tool is a safe tool. Sharpening can be a difficult skill to master, but it is essential to woodturning. Sharp tools are safer and more enjoyable to use. Be patient and take the time to learn to sharpen, it will pay off.
5. You see better with your hands. Don't just look at your work, feel it. Oftentimes your hands can best assess the shape and smoothness of a piece.
6. Master the basics. Every aspect of woodturning is based on some basic skills that are critical to learn. Don't feel rushed to learn complicated cuts, master the basics.
7. Practice. Spend time at the lathe, it makes all the difference!
Questions or tips of your own? Share in the comments below.
]]>Oil & Sandpaper: For a finer look, apply oil to the wood using 600 grit wet/dry paper or shavings. The friction caused by the heat will cure the oil faster. You can also apply this technique to wax finishes.
Rotary Sanding Disk: If you have lots of finishing to do, try using a rotary sanding disk. This method is faster than sanding by hand and oftentimes leaves a smoother finish with less scratches.
Use the Tools: Don’t be afraid to go back to your tools if a coarse grit of sandpaper isn’t doing the job.
Try Tung Oil: Many turners dismiss tung oil because of the time it takes to dry. Tung oil leaves a beautiful, watertight finish that may be worth the wait.
Don’t Skimp: Take your time finishing your piece. The better it looks now, the better it will look on display later. Finishing is important, don’t treat it as an afterthought.
What are your favorite finishing techniques? Let us know in the comments below!
Sources:
http://www.woodcentral.com/russ/finish7.shtml
http://www.morewoodturningmagazine.com/articles/finishing.php
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